My first thoughts this morning were about getting organized to get packed up as this will be my last day in the apartment. I need to be out by 10 am tomorrow.
After breakfast I rode the bus down to the Carnavalet Museum. It is a former mansion that now houses the museum of the history of Paris. Most of the history is told in paintings contemporary for the era they depict. I found the section on the French Revolution to be the most interesting. There is a recreation of Marie Antoinette's chamber while she was imprisoned - it didn't look too uncomfortable. Of course all of the signage was in french, so it was a little hard to tell what everything was all about. The museum has a lot of steps, but it is free.
It was actually sunny today, but I wore my raincoat and carried my umbrella for insurance. It was too warm for the coat, though. I walked down to the Place Vosges, which looks very different in the sunshine than it did the first time I saw it in the rain. People were sitting on the grass and enjoying the sun. I had my most expensive cup of coffee yet at a cafe under the arcade - 5.80 euros for a double cafe noisette. It was worth it.
My plan was to walk back to the apartment through the Marais and do some shopping along the way. I passed a little creperie by the church of St. Paul and wished I was hungry. I walked a little further up the street, and back-tracked, thinking "I'll be hungry soon." I had the Galette du Jour at La Cidrerie du Marais. A buckwheat crepe (galette in Brittany) filled with bleu cheese, ham, pears, and walnuts. If was very good, especially washed down with a cup of cider. Just like in Brittany. Lunch = 10 euros. Continuing my walk after lunch, I found a bead shop. A very nice one, too. It seemed to have all the necessary supplies and lots and lots of beads.
I thought I might get a flat-rate box at La Poste to send some stuff back home, especially my guidebooks which are heavy. A 2 kg box (the smallest they had) would cost about 60 euros to ship. I decided I could leave these books behind and buy new ones for less than that. So bagged that idea.
I walked along Rue des Rosiers and Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnaire, doing some serious window shopping. I went into a few shops, but nothing really reached out and grabbed me. I haven't found anything special to take home for myself. The problem is that I have developed a mindset of "no more stuff!" I guess I'll just have to take home my experiences and memories of all the good food I've had.
The shops are very nice with high quality goods. Pretty expensive. Lots of leather goods, clothing, and jewelry. Some very unique shops with quirky stuff, too.
I got back to the apartment a little before 3pm and headed for the laundromat. It is so much easier to pack clean clothes. Then I started to sort out everything for packing. I feel so settled in this apartment, the task is almost daunting. Could it be that I don't want to go home?
As small as it is, this apartment has worked well for me. I wouldn't recommend it for more than one person. There is nothing special about the building, no charming courtyard or lobby, just a narrow hallway and a winding staircase. It's old and creaky, but there is an elevator, which isn't found in a lot of these old buildings. The location is great. Close to 3 bus lines that have gotten me wherever I've wanted to go; also close to 3 Metro stations and an RER station. A 10 minute walk to the Seine. Lots of shops and cafes close at hand, including a supermarket. Lots of activity on the street. Maybe a little noisy, but that really hasn't been a problem for me. Fortunately, it has been cool enough that I haven't needed the window open at night. I've really enjoyed my home in Paris.
Tonight I met my TA friend for dinner at Ambassade d'Auvergne, which is just a block or so from the apartment, and turns out to be one of her favorite restaurants. It is a very charming place, specializing in dishes from he Auvergne region of France. One of their specialities is "aligot," which is potato, cheese, and garlic, beaten until it is a gooey consistency. They bring the pot out to the table to show you. It is delicious. For a starter I had blood sausage on a bed of white beans with vinaigrette, and for the main course roasted magret de canard (duck breast) with the aligot. The duck was perfectly cooked. For dessert I had another of their specialities, chocolate mousse, which they serve in a large serving bowl, allowing you to have as much as you want. It was dark chocolate, and heavenly. Unfortunately, more than half of the bowl (both of us shared it), went back to the kitchen. We shared a bottle of red wine and had a very delightful evening.
My suitcase is partially packed. Want to pack some more tonight, but will still have a lot to do in the morning.
The Eiffel Tower - Photo Taken September 2010
Friday, September 20, 2013
Thursday, September 19, 2013
Day 13 - The Louvre and a Quilt Shop
An update on the Laduree macarons that I bought yesterday, but didn't eat until last night. They were delicious and the flavors very intense. I think the best I've had. Note to self: Eat them when you get them, don't carry them around all day so they get all smooshed and crumbly.
This morning I started out for the Louvre. I rode the bus part of the way and walked part of the way. I enjoyed walking under the arcade opposite the Louvre on the north side of Rue de Rivoli. There are some interesting shops and just across from the entrance to the Louvre, there was an exposition called "Bois et Foret" (Wood and Forest). They had plantings of different kinds of trees, seedlings really, there was a wooden model of the Eiffel Tower, a small log cabin, and an area where people could learn how to make different things out of wood.
After checking out the mob of people waiting to enter the Louvre through the pyramid, and shooing off a couple of petition girls, I went down to the shopping center under the Louvre where there is a less busy entrance. The shopping mall is called the Carousel du Louvre and it is full of high end shops. I found the shops to be very interesting and unique. There is a nice restroom - I think part of a cosmetic shop - that charges 1.50 euros for the privilege of using their facilities, but it was worth it. There was a bit of a line waiting to get into the Louvre, but it was for security only. It was about 11:00 when I got into the area under the pyramid, so I had a cup of coffe and a wonderful tarte citron (lemon tart) to tide me over for a couple of hours at "Paul" the boulangerie since 1889.
After checking my coat I went to the Richelieu wing. Almost everyone heads for the Denon wing because that is where all the "biggies" are, eg., the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, etc. The Richelieu wing has paintings (French, Flemish, German, etc.), statues, objects d'arts, and the apartments of Napoleon III. There are also about one-tenth as many people as in the Denon wing. My main objective was the Napoleon's apartment. I wasn't disappointed - they were pretty impressive.
After finishing in the Richelieu wing, I thought I'd pop into the Denon wing. Since it was lunch time, I thought there would be fewer people - not! There were just too many people, and since I'd seen all of the "biggies" before, I left.
The Richelieu wing is very easy to navigate, especially for someone with mobility issues as there are escalators and elevators, but I didn't see anything but lots of steps in the Denon wing. I'm sure there must be some elevators, but I didn't see them.
My next objective for the day was a quilt shop Le Rouvray on the Left Bank across from Notre Dame. I rode the bus to Petit Pont and walked along looking for a place to have lunch. I finally ended up at Bistro La Grange on rue La Grange. I ordered a Croque Monsieur, and it was delicious. It was a slice of rustic bread with pesto, ham, and cheese, toasted and served with a lettuce salad. I ordered a Coca Light (Diet Coke), and it even came with a piece of ice! I was in heaven! Lunch was 11.80 euros.
I found the quilt shop. It is quite small, but very nice, and the owner was very pleasant. There was a couple there from Upstate New York, and as we always do when 2 or more quilters are together in a room, we talked quilting. I bought a piece of toile fabric (french fabric with scenes printed on it; usually red, green, blue or black on a white or off-white background). Unfortunately, the owner said she was going to have to close the shop at the end of October because her husband is out of work and she needs to get a job. She said she'd open another shop next year.
I walked along the Seine and crossed over the "Love Lock" bridge to Ile St. Louis. There were 3 armed soldiers on the bridge - they are non-threatening, but I couldn't help but wonder what was going on. Were they there to keep people from putting more locks on the bridge? I was thinking I'd go to the famous Berthillon Tea Room, which arguably has the best ice cream in Paris. When I got over to the island, I was too tired to walk all the way down there, so stopped at the Brasserie de L'lsle Saint-Louis, which I knew to be very touristy, but they advertise that they have Berthillon ice cream. I ordered a cafe noisette (coffee with milk) and 2 boules of ice cream (chocolat noir and caramel sale). The scoops of ice cream were very small, which was okay, but they cost 8 euros! Total bill with the coffee came to 10.90 euros. Did I mention that this is a touristy place? There was a nice couple from Boston sitting next to me, so I had good company, and there was an unending parade of people to watch: A woman walking her cat on a leash; a street mime; a fellow playing french music on an accordion, and a couple dancing to the music. Considering the entertainment, it was good value. Sitting there, I thought there was no place else I'd rather be.
Dinner tonight at Chou Chou, a bistro down the street from the apartment that gets good reviews on Trip Advisor. I had confit de canard with pommes sarladaise. A duck leg & thigh with potatoes a la Sarlat (a town in the Dordogne that is famous for ducks and geese) with a lettuce & tomato salad on the side, and some red wine. Chocolate molten cake with creme anglais and "un cafe" for dessert. Less than 25 euros and they had live music - a guitarist and bass fiddle playing nice jazz. Rue Rambuteau is just as busy at night as during the day. At least 2 or 3 other bistros have live music as well, and not just tourists. Heard mostly french being spoken. Loved the vibe.
This morning I started out for the Louvre. I rode the bus part of the way and walked part of the way. I enjoyed walking under the arcade opposite the Louvre on the north side of Rue de Rivoli. There are some interesting shops and just across from the entrance to the Louvre, there was an exposition called "Bois et Foret" (Wood and Forest). They had plantings of different kinds of trees, seedlings really, there was a wooden model of the Eiffel Tower, a small log cabin, and an area where people could learn how to make different things out of wood.
After checking out the mob of people waiting to enter the Louvre through the pyramid, and shooing off a couple of petition girls, I went down to the shopping center under the Louvre where there is a less busy entrance. The shopping mall is called the Carousel du Louvre and it is full of high end shops. I found the shops to be very interesting and unique. There is a nice restroom - I think part of a cosmetic shop - that charges 1.50 euros for the privilege of using their facilities, but it was worth it. There was a bit of a line waiting to get into the Louvre, but it was for security only. It was about 11:00 when I got into the area under the pyramid, so I had a cup of coffe and a wonderful tarte citron (lemon tart) to tide me over for a couple of hours at "Paul" the boulangerie since 1889.
After checking my coat I went to the Richelieu wing. Almost everyone heads for the Denon wing because that is where all the "biggies" are, eg., the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, etc. The Richelieu wing has paintings (French, Flemish, German, etc.), statues, objects d'arts, and the apartments of Napoleon III. There are also about one-tenth as many people as in the Denon wing. My main objective was the Napoleon's apartment. I wasn't disappointed - they were pretty impressive.
After finishing in the Richelieu wing, I thought I'd pop into the Denon wing. Since it was lunch time, I thought there would be fewer people - not! There were just too many people, and since I'd seen all of the "biggies" before, I left.
The Richelieu wing is very easy to navigate, especially for someone with mobility issues as there are escalators and elevators, but I didn't see anything but lots of steps in the Denon wing. I'm sure there must be some elevators, but I didn't see them.
My next objective for the day was a quilt shop Le Rouvray on the Left Bank across from Notre Dame. I rode the bus to Petit Pont and walked along looking for a place to have lunch. I finally ended up at Bistro La Grange on rue La Grange. I ordered a Croque Monsieur, and it was delicious. It was a slice of rustic bread with pesto, ham, and cheese, toasted and served with a lettuce salad. I ordered a Coca Light (Diet Coke), and it even came with a piece of ice! I was in heaven! Lunch was 11.80 euros.
I found the quilt shop. It is quite small, but very nice, and the owner was very pleasant. There was a couple there from Upstate New York, and as we always do when 2 or more quilters are together in a room, we talked quilting. I bought a piece of toile fabric (french fabric with scenes printed on it; usually red, green, blue or black on a white or off-white background). Unfortunately, the owner said she was going to have to close the shop at the end of October because her husband is out of work and she needs to get a job. She said she'd open another shop next year.
I walked along the Seine and crossed over the "Love Lock" bridge to Ile St. Louis. There were 3 armed soldiers on the bridge - they are non-threatening, but I couldn't help but wonder what was going on. Were they there to keep people from putting more locks on the bridge? I was thinking I'd go to the famous Berthillon Tea Room, which arguably has the best ice cream in Paris. When I got over to the island, I was too tired to walk all the way down there, so stopped at the Brasserie de L'lsle Saint-Louis, which I knew to be very touristy, but they advertise that they have Berthillon ice cream. I ordered a cafe noisette (coffee with milk) and 2 boules of ice cream (chocolat noir and caramel sale). The scoops of ice cream were very small, which was okay, but they cost 8 euros! Total bill with the coffee came to 10.90 euros. Did I mention that this is a touristy place? There was a nice couple from Boston sitting next to me, so I had good company, and there was an unending parade of people to watch: A woman walking her cat on a leash; a street mime; a fellow playing french music on an accordion, and a couple dancing to the music. Considering the entertainment, it was good value. Sitting there, I thought there was no place else I'd rather be.
Dinner tonight at Chou Chou, a bistro down the street from the apartment that gets good reviews on Trip Advisor. I had confit de canard with pommes sarladaise. A duck leg & thigh with potatoes a la Sarlat (a town in the Dordogne that is famous for ducks and geese) with a lettuce & tomato salad on the side, and some red wine. Chocolate molten cake with creme anglais and "un cafe" for dessert. Less than 25 euros and they had live music - a guitarist and bass fiddle playing nice jazz. Rue Rambuteau is just as busy at night as during the day. At least 2 or 3 other bistros have live music as well, and not just tourists. Heard mostly french being spoken. Loved the vibe.
Wednesday, September 18, 2013
Day 12 - l'Orangerie and Jacquemart-Andre
Another overcast day, but I didn't let that stop me. I walked over to the bus and rode down to Hotel de Ville where I changed to a bus that would take me to Place de la Concorde. My destination was l'Orangerie. As I walked from the bus stop toward the museum, I crossed Rue Royale with a great view of La Madeleine at the other end of it. The first thing that came to mind was Laduree, and the second thing was macarons. So a quick detour up Rue Royale. It was a little past 10 and as I got close, I thought I hope they're open. They were, and there was no line. I bought 6 macarons for 11.80 euros. I'll have some for dessert tonight, then I can compare them to ones I've already had from Galleries Lafayette and Pierre Hermes. Frankly, I think it is more a case of the best ones being the ones you are eating now.
As I walked back to La Concorde, another woman picked a gold ring off the the sidewalk in front of me - nearly the same spot where it happened last week - she looked at me and kept going, didn't try the scam on me.
When I arrived at l'Orangerie there were two lines. One for people needing to buy tickets and one for those of us with prepurchased tickets or passes. Neither was very long, but the latter was shorter. They control the number of people in the museum at any one time. When people leave, more people are allowed to enter. Again, the line was for security, and once I'd passed security (walk through metal detector and a peek into my purse) I could go directly into the museum with my pass.
The reason people go to the l'Orangerie is to see Monet's water lily paintings. These are huge canvases, four in each of two oval rooms. They depict the pond in his garden at different times of day and different seasons. I have to say they were not as breathtaking as they were the first time I saw them in 1994 - probably because I knew what to expect this time. Since 1994, the building has been renovated and the canvases have been moved from the lower level to the upper level where they are seen under defused natural lighting from a huge skylight in the roof. They are now displayed the way Monet wanted them to be displayed, according to his own plans. They are still awesome and anyone who is seeing them for the first time has to be blown away.
On the lower level of the museum is a collection of art by Renoir, Matisse, Cezanne, Picasso, and other artists. It is a very nice collection and probably under appreciated since Monet's huge canvases are the big draw. But I appreciated that I could actually get close to these paintings as there are not the crowds of people as at the d'Orsay.
I walked back to the bus stop and got on a bus headed to Boulevard Haussmann and the Musee Jacquemart-Andre. This museum is actually a 19th century mansion that was owned by a couple who had no children, but travelled around the world collecting art and decorative items to furnish their home. It has been a museum for about 100 years. It is more like visiting a furnished house than a museum, but it is gorgeous and there are some very interesting things in it. They have a very nice cafe where I had a tomato and cheese quiche and salad for lunch.
Riding the bus along Boulevard Haussmann, I passed several embassies, including the American and British embassies. It was neat seeing the American flag flying over our embassy.
I changed buses at the Opera, and while looking for the correct stop for the #29, I went into a Swatch boutique for a few minutes. When I started to leave, it was pouring rain, so I darted back inside to get my umbrella out. It rained so hard! Fortunately, I wasn't far from the bus stop and the bus came fairly quickly. The rain had mostly stopped by the time I got off the bus at the top of my street.
I went to the apartment to dry off and rest for awhile. As it was not longer raining, I went out again to go over to Rue Montorgueil, the popular market street that I visited the first Sunday I was here. There were more shops open today, and it was quite busy. There was even a demonstration of sorts in front of one of the supermarket chains, protesting how eggs are produced. At least that's the gist of what I could figure out. I bought some peaches and bananas at Le Palais de Fruit. I now have enough food for the three breakfasts I have remaining in the apartment - just need to go out to get a fresh baguette or croissant each morning.
Walking back to the apartment it started to rain again, but not so hard this time. More charcuterie for dinner tonight. Some terrine and/or sausage from the Charcuterie down the street, and little cheese, some salad, some wine, and baguette - makes a nice supper.
As I walked back to La Concorde, another woman picked a gold ring off the the sidewalk in front of me - nearly the same spot where it happened last week - she looked at me and kept going, didn't try the scam on me.
When I arrived at l'Orangerie there were two lines. One for people needing to buy tickets and one for those of us with prepurchased tickets or passes. Neither was very long, but the latter was shorter. They control the number of people in the museum at any one time. When people leave, more people are allowed to enter. Again, the line was for security, and once I'd passed security (walk through metal detector and a peek into my purse) I could go directly into the museum with my pass.
The reason people go to the l'Orangerie is to see Monet's water lily paintings. These are huge canvases, four in each of two oval rooms. They depict the pond in his garden at different times of day and different seasons. I have to say they were not as breathtaking as they were the first time I saw them in 1994 - probably because I knew what to expect this time. Since 1994, the building has been renovated and the canvases have been moved from the lower level to the upper level where they are seen under defused natural lighting from a huge skylight in the roof. They are now displayed the way Monet wanted them to be displayed, according to his own plans. They are still awesome and anyone who is seeing them for the first time has to be blown away.
On the lower level of the museum is a collection of art by Renoir, Matisse, Cezanne, Picasso, and other artists. It is a very nice collection and probably under appreciated since Monet's huge canvases are the big draw. But I appreciated that I could actually get close to these paintings as there are not the crowds of people as at the d'Orsay.
I walked back to the bus stop and got on a bus headed to Boulevard Haussmann and the Musee Jacquemart-Andre. This museum is actually a 19th century mansion that was owned by a couple who had no children, but travelled around the world collecting art and decorative items to furnish their home. It has been a museum for about 100 years. It is more like visiting a furnished house than a museum, but it is gorgeous and there are some very interesting things in it. They have a very nice cafe where I had a tomato and cheese quiche and salad for lunch.
Riding the bus along Boulevard Haussmann, I passed several embassies, including the American and British embassies. It was neat seeing the American flag flying over our embassy.
I changed buses at the Opera, and while looking for the correct stop for the #29, I went into a Swatch boutique for a few minutes. When I started to leave, it was pouring rain, so I darted back inside to get my umbrella out. It rained so hard! Fortunately, I wasn't far from the bus stop and the bus came fairly quickly. The rain had mostly stopped by the time I got off the bus at the top of my street.
I went to the apartment to dry off and rest for awhile. As it was not longer raining, I went out again to go over to Rue Montorgueil, the popular market street that I visited the first Sunday I was here. There were more shops open today, and it was quite busy. There was even a demonstration of sorts in front of one of the supermarket chains, protesting how eggs are produced. At least that's the gist of what I could figure out. I bought some peaches and bananas at Le Palais de Fruit. I now have enough food for the three breakfasts I have remaining in the apartment - just need to go out to get a fresh baguette or croissant each morning.
Walking back to the apartment it started to rain again, but not so hard this time. More charcuterie for dinner tonight. Some terrine and/or sausage from the Charcuterie down the street, and little cheese, some salad, some wine, and baguette - makes a nice supper.
Tuesday, September 17, 2013
Day 11 - Musee d'Orsay, Musee Rodin, and Tour Eiffel
The day's weather promised to be a repeat of yesterday's, so I donned my raincoat and grabbed my new umbrella before setting out.
I rode the #69 bus over to the d'Orsay museum. There was a huge line of people waiting to buy tickets, and a shorter line for those of us with passes. The line got longer after I got into it; however, that was just the security line. Once inside, I walked right in after showing my pass. I knew it would be busy today because the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays, so that means everyone flocks to the d'Orsay. I should listen to Rick Steves. Oh, well.
I toured the right half of the main floor, then went up to the 5th floor where the Impressionists are. I decided that I probably wouldn't see everything anyway, so I may as well start with what I really wanted to see. It is pretty exciting to see the originals of the prints you've seen all of your life. At one time a print of Monet's picture of the woman and child walking in a field of poppies hung in my office at Marsh, so it was neat to see the original. Then I went down to the 2nd floor to see the Post-Impressionists. I had just read "The Yellow House," a book about Van Gogh and Gaughan when they lived in Arles, so it was fun seeing some of the pictures that were described in the book. Unlike many museums that allow photos without flash, the d'Orsay doesn't, but we could take pictures from behind the clock and from a balcony that overlooks the main gallery. It is quite an impressive building, and originally was a train station. By the time I had finished with the Post-Impressionists I felt fairly satisfied with what I'd seen, and even though there was still a lot more to see, I was tired and hungry, so I left.
I had a quick lunch at the cafe right across the street from the museum. It was an onion tart with a lettuce salad. It was relatively inexpensive for Paris (11.80 euros), but pretty pricey for what it was. I think it was frozen and microwaved as the pastry was pretty soggy. But, it was quick and I wasn't hungry after I finished it. There was a couple from Oklahoma at the table next to me and I enjoyed visiting with them.
I hopped back on the #69 bus and got off in front of Les Invalides, and walked over to the Rodin Museum. I didn't go into the building, but walked through the garden. Rodin was a contemporary of the Impressionists, and was himself an impressionist. While there, I topped off my lunch with some dessert and coffee at the cafe in the garden.
I decided to ride the #69 to the end of the line at Champ de Mars, so I could get closer to the Eiffel Tower. When I got of the bus I noticed a group of men playing boules nearby. The Eiffel Tower is pretty darn impressive when you're up close to it, but I was still quite a distance away. I'm ready Edward Rutherfurd's "Paris" right now and he spends quite a lot of time describing how the tower was built, so seeing it brought that to life for me. The weather is such that it just doesn't make sense to go up the tower as you wouldn't be able to see much, and besides the best views of Paris have the Eiffel Tower in them!
I rode the #82 back through Montparnasse, a new area for me. I can certainly see why so many people like to stay near the Eiffel Tower and in Montparnasse - the apartment buildings in that are are quite nice, and I think expensive. The end of the line was at the Luxembourgh Gardens where I changed to the #38 that took me to my neighborhood where I bought some supplies for tonight's dinner.
It actually didn't rain today, but it was windy and cold. Fall is definitely in the air. Only 4 more full days in Paris.
I rode the #69 bus over to the d'Orsay museum. There was a huge line of people waiting to buy tickets, and a shorter line for those of us with passes. The line got longer after I got into it; however, that was just the security line. Once inside, I walked right in after showing my pass. I knew it would be busy today because the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays, so that means everyone flocks to the d'Orsay. I should listen to Rick Steves. Oh, well.
I toured the right half of the main floor, then went up to the 5th floor where the Impressionists are. I decided that I probably wouldn't see everything anyway, so I may as well start with what I really wanted to see. It is pretty exciting to see the originals of the prints you've seen all of your life. At one time a print of Monet's picture of the woman and child walking in a field of poppies hung in my office at Marsh, so it was neat to see the original. Then I went down to the 2nd floor to see the Post-Impressionists. I had just read "The Yellow House," a book about Van Gogh and Gaughan when they lived in Arles, so it was fun seeing some of the pictures that were described in the book. Unlike many museums that allow photos without flash, the d'Orsay doesn't, but we could take pictures from behind the clock and from a balcony that overlooks the main gallery. It is quite an impressive building, and originally was a train station. By the time I had finished with the Post-Impressionists I felt fairly satisfied with what I'd seen, and even though there was still a lot more to see, I was tired and hungry, so I left.
I had a quick lunch at the cafe right across the street from the museum. It was an onion tart with a lettuce salad. It was relatively inexpensive for Paris (11.80 euros), but pretty pricey for what it was. I think it was frozen and microwaved as the pastry was pretty soggy. But, it was quick and I wasn't hungry after I finished it. There was a couple from Oklahoma at the table next to me and I enjoyed visiting with them.
I hopped back on the #69 bus and got off in front of Les Invalides, and walked over to the Rodin Museum. I didn't go into the building, but walked through the garden. Rodin was a contemporary of the Impressionists, and was himself an impressionist. While there, I topped off my lunch with some dessert and coffee at the cafe in the garden.
I decided to ride the #69 to the end of the line at Champ de Mars, so I could get closer to the Eiffel Tower. When I got of the bus I noticed a group of men playing boules nearby. The Eiffel Tower is pretty darn impressive when you're up close to it, but I was still quite a distance away. I'm ready Edward Rutherfurd's "Paris" right now and he spends quite a lot of time describing how the tower was built, so seeing it brought that to life for me. The weather is such that it just doesn't make sense to go up the tower as you wouldn't be able to see much, and besides the best views of Paris have the Eiffel Tower in them!
I rode the #82 back through Montparnasse, a new area for me. I can certainly see why so many people like to stay near the Eiffel Tower and in Montparnasse - the apartment buildings in that are are quite nice, and I think expensive. The end of the line was at the Luxembourgh Gardens where I changed to the #38 that took me to my neighborhood where I bought some supplies for tonight's dinner.
It actually didn't rain today, but it was windy and cold. Fall is definitely in the air. Only 4 more full days in Paris.
Monday, September 16, 2013
Day 10 - Pompidou Center and the Islands
The sky was grey when I looked out this morning, but it was breaking up with some blue sky when I went out for my baguette. I let my high hopes for the day override my common sense and left home without either my raincoat or umbrella.
I planned to go to the Pompidou Center this morning, but since it doesn't open until 11, I walked around the side streets in the area around the PC. Many shops are closed on Mondays, and those that aren't don't open until 11, so the streets were pretty quiet. It's interesting to walk around when the streets are waking up. Shopkeepers sweep their front walks, trash is being picked up, streets are being cleaned, and finally shutters are rolled up and the shops are open for business.
I watched people line up for the opening of the Pompidou Center while drinking coffee at a cafe. The line was just to get into the building. Security involved opening our purses/bags for a quick inspection. Once inside, those without tickets had to queue up to buy their tickets and those of us with a pass went right in. The escalators to the upper floors are on the outside of the building; in fact, all of the building mechanics are on the outside (see photos). I rode all the way to the top floor as the weather was clear and I wanted to get some pictures. There is a wonderful view of Paris from the top level of the museum. Unfortunately, the view is seen through plexiglass that isn't very clear. The permanent exhibits are on the 4th & 5th floors - the 4th floor is contemporary art dating from approximately 1960 to the present, and the 5th floor is modern art from the first half of the 20th century. I was disappointed to learn that the 5th floor is temporarily closed until mid-October because that is what interested me the most. The art on the 4th floor is interesting, but not really my cup of tea. There were some fun exhibits, though.
The remainder of the day was spent on the Islands: the Ile de la Cite and the Ile St. Louis. I rode the bus over to the Palais de Justice and walked along the Quai de l'Horloge to the Pont Neuf, which despite the name is the oldest of the bridges crossing the Seine. This is at the western point of the Ile de las Cite and features a park and statue of Henri IV. One of the "love lock" bridges is also here (see post for Day 4 for more about the "love lock" bridges). It was lunch time, so I went to the Place Dauphine to look for a cafe.
I went to La Rose de France and had a wonderful lunch, a bit of a splurge. For a starter I had a plate of 3 preparations of foie gras. One was foie gras "ice cream." It had an icy consistency with a salty/crunchy element on top. At first it was cold on my tongue, then melted to a buttery consistency. It was really good. The second was a foie gras "creme brulee," which came in a small ramekin with caramelized sugar on top. The texture was just like a creamy smooth custard, but it was made with foie gras. It was also very good. The third was a slice of solid foie gras with some sort of glaze on top, and it was delicious. The entire thing was heavenly. After all that richness, I had wisely chosen a simple salad of sliced chicken breast with fresh and sun-dried tomatoes, and radishes on a bed of lettuce, for my main course. While I was in the restaurant, the wind came up and it poured, and I didn't have either my raincoat or my umbrella. But, it wasn't long before the wind died down and the sun came out.
I finished my lunch, which was topped off with "un cafe" served with a perfect chocolate truffle, and started walking up the island. Halfway up the block, it started to rain, and it poured. I crossed over to the Left Bank because I knew there were several souvenir shops over there where I could buy a parapluie (umbrella). I found one, but not before I was pretty wet. I stopped at a cafe just to get out of the rain - that's one thing nice about Paris, with over 10,000 cafes, it is pretty easy to find one when you need one - and had another cup of coffee until the rain stopped. I walked around Notre Dame. There were lots of people around and quite a long line of people waiting to climb the stairs up one of the towers. I think the best views of Notre Dame are from the back where you can see the flying buttresses. I walked over to the "love lock" bridge that I had crossed last week, so I could take some pictures, then went into the Deportation Memorial. It is a memorial for the tens of thousands of Parisian Jews that were deported during the Nazi occupation in World War II. Unfortunately, it is closed on Mondays, but I had been there before.
The Ils St.Louis is like a small village unto itself with narrow cobbled streets. There are many very expensive mansions on the island and real estate there is quite expensive. I walked around for a while and went into a few shops.
It started to rain again, so I made my way back to the Palais de Justice to catch the bus back home.
Three different times today I saw armed soldiers - once at the Pompidou Center, then at Notre Dame, and also at the Hotel de Ville. Only 2 or 3 soldiers, but all were armed with automatic weapons. Though I saw a military presence on Saturday during the Journees des Patrimoines, this was the first time since I've been here that I've seen armed soldiers. I wondered what was going on.
One thing about France that I'll never get used to, even after five visits here, is the uni-sex restrooms. I guess it's just one of those French things, I guess. Vive la differance!
I planned to go to the Pompidou Center this morning, but since it doesn't open until 11, I walked around the side streets in the area around the PC. Many shops are closed on Mondays, and those that aren't don't open until 11, so the streets were pretty quiet. It's interesting to walk around when the streets are waking up. Shopkeepers sweep their front walks, trash is being picked up, streets are being cleaned, and finally shutters are rolled up and the shops are open for business.
I watched people line up for the opening of the Pompidou Center while drinking coffee at a cafe. The line was just to get into the building. Security involved opening our purses/bags for a quick inspection. Once inside, those without tickets had to queue up to buy their tickets and those of us with a pass went right in. The escalators to the upper floors are on the outside of the building; in fact, all of the building mechanics are on the outside (see photos). I rode all the way to the top floor as the weather was clear and I wanted to get some pictures. There is a wonderful view of Paris from the top level of the museum. Unfortunately, the view is seen through plexiglass that isn't very clear. The permanent exhibits are on the 4th & 5th floors - the 4th floor is contemporary art dating from approximately 1960 to the present, and the 5th floor is modern art from the first half of the 20th century. I was disappointed to learn that the 5th floor is temporarily closed until mid-October because that is what interested me the most. The art on the 4th floor is interesting, but not really my cup of tea. There were some fun exhibits, though.
The remainder of the day was spent on the Islands: the Ile de la Cite and the Ile St. Louis. I rode the bus over to the Palais de Justice and walked along the Quai de l'Horloge to the Pont Neuf, which despite the name is the oldest of the bridges crossing the Seine. This is at the western point of the Ile de las Cite and features a park and statue of Henri IV. One of the "love lock" bridges is also here (see post for Day 4 for more about the "love lock" bridges). It was lunch time, so I went to the Place Dauphine to look for a cafe.
I went to La Rose de France and had a wonderful lunch, a bit of a splurge. For a starter I had a plate of 3 preparations of foie gras. One was foie gras "ice cream." It had an icy consistency with a salty/crunchy element on top. At first it was cold on my tongue, then melted to a buttery consistency. It was really good. The second was a foie gras "creme brulee," which came in a small ramekin with caramelized sugar on top. The texture was just like a creamy smooth custard, but it was made with foie gras. It was also very good. The third was a slice of solid foie gras with some sort of glaze on top, and it was delicious. The entire thing was heavenly. After all that richness, I had wisely chosen a simple salad of sliced chicken breast with fresh and sun-dried tomatoes, and radishes on a bed of lettuce, for my main course. While I was in the restaurant, the wind came up and it poured, and I didn't have either my raincoat or my umbrella. But, it wasn't long before the wind died down and the sun came out.
I finished my lunch, which was topped off with "un cafe" served with a perfect chocolate truffle, and started walking up the island. Halfway up the block, it started to rain, and it poured. I crossed over to the Left Bank because I knew there were several souvenir shops over there where I could buy a parapluie (umbrella). I found one, but not before I was pretty wet. I stopped at a cafe just to get out of the rain - that's one thing nice about Paris, with over 10,000 cafes, it is pretty easy to find one when you need one - and had another cup of coffee until the rain stopped. I walked around Notre Dame. There were lots of people around and quite a long line of people waiting to climb the stairs up one of the towers. I think the best views of Notre Dame are from the back where you can see the flying buttresses. I walked over to the "love lock" bridge that I had crossed last week, so I could take some pictures, then went into the Deportation Memorial. It is a memorial for the tens of thousands of Parisian Jews that were deported during the Nazi occupation in World War II. Unfortunately, it is closed on Mondays, but I had been there before.
The Ils St.Louis is like a small village unto itself with narrow cobbled streets. There are many very expensive mansions on the island and real estate there is quite expensive. I walked around for a while and went into a few shops.
It started to rain again, so I made my way back to the Palais de Justice to catch the bus back home.
Three different times today I saw armed soldiers - once at the Pompidou Center, then at Notre Dame, and also at the Hotel de Ville. Only 2 or 3 soldiers, but all were armed with automatic weapons. Though I saw a military presence on Saturday during the Journees des Patrimoines, this was the first time since I've been here that I've seen armed soldiers. I wondered what was going on.
One thing about France that I'll never get used to, even after five visits here, is the uni-sex restrooms. I guess it's just one of those French things, I guess. Vive la differance!
Sunday, September 15, 2013
Day 9 - Richard Lenoir Market & Pere Lachaise Cemetery
This morning when I peeked out my window I saw - miracle of miracles - blue sky and sunshine!
I rode the #29 bus over to Place de la Bastille to the market on Blvd Richard Lenoir. This is the largest of Paris' many markets, and it is BIG. There were countless people and most of the locals seemed to have either a trolley to carry their purchases, a dog, or a child, or all three. The main dangers of navigating the market is the uneven pavement and curbs, as well as all of those trolleys. You really have to watch where you're going, but it's hard because there is so much else to see. I bought a few souvenir-type items and shopped for tonight's dinner: a demi-poulet (half a chicken) and the potatoes that are cooked with the chicken fat dripping on them. Also some vegetables. I rode the bus back to the apartment to drop off my purchases. Some of the streets had been blocked off from 10 til 7:30 PM, reserving them for bikers and walkers only, so the bus had to make a detour. The buses don't run as frequently on Sundays so I had to spend quite a bit of time waiting.
All day I felt like I was missing something because I didn't have to carry my umbrella - such freedom! It did get cloudy later in the day, but it didn't rain, so I have high hopes for tomorrow. The breeze is cool and some leaves are starting to fall - autumn is in the air.
I had a quick lunch in the neighborhood of a ham & cheese crepe and a "coca light" (Diet Coke), which, by the way, tastes different than Diet Coke at home. It wasn't as good as the crepes in Brittany, but it was quick and cheap. I then walked down to the river so I could catch the #69 bus out to Pere Lachaise cemetery. On the way, I watched a performance artist at the Pompidou Center (see picture). When someone dropped money in his box, he would nod, and I saw him twitch his toes; otherwise, he stood motionless. I also went inside the church of Sainte Merrie, another very old church in the area.
Pere Lachaise is Paris' largest cemetery, and is the final resting place for many famous people. The most interesting feature, however, is the statuary and the tombs. Since there are no signs pointing the way to the famous plots, you have to look for them, and and found only two: Heloise & Abelard, medieval lovers (Google them) and Jim Morrison of the Doors. Also there are Moliere, Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, Chopin, Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas, and many others. There is room for 70,000 plots and people are still being buried here. Many of the tombs have sadly deteriorated, but they are very old as the cemetery dates back to the 18th century. The cemetery is built up a hillside and the cobblestones are killers, but it isn't at all creepy. It was an interesting way to spend the afternoon.
I got on the #69 back to the Bastille and changed there to the #29, so I would be closer to home. Then treated myself to some excellent gelato at Amorino's where I could watch the activity at the Pompidou Center.
I rode the #29 bus over to Place de la Bastille to the market on Blvd Richard Lenoir. This is the largest of Paris' many markets, and it is BIG. There were countless people and most of the locals seemed to have either a trolley to carry their purchases, a dog, or a child, or all three. The main dangers of navigating the market is the uneven pavement and curbs, as well as all of those trolleys. You really have to watch where you're going, but it's hard because there is so much else to see. I bought a few souvenir-type items and shopped for tonight's dinner: a demi-poulet (half a chicken) and the potatoes that are cooked with the chicken fat dripping on them. Also some vegetables. I rode the bus back to the apartment to drop off my purchases. Some of the streets had been blocked off from 10 til 7:30 PM, reserving them for bikers and walkers only, so the bus had to make a detour. The buses don't run as frequently on Sundays so I had to spend quite a bit of time waiting.
All day I felt like I was missing something because I didn't have to carry my umbrella - such freedom! It did get cloudy later in the day, but it didn't rain, so I have high hopes for tomorrow. The breeze is cool and some leaves are starting to fall - autumn is in the air.
I had a quick lunch in the neighborhood of a ham & cheese crepe and a "coca light" (Diet Coke), which, by the way, tastes different than Diet Coke at home. It wasn't as good as the crepes in Brittany, but it was quick and cheap. I then walked down to the river so I could catch the #69 bus out to Pere Lachaise cemetery. On the way, I watched a performance artist at the Pompidou Center (see picture). When someone dropped money in his box, he would nod, and I saw him twitch his toes; otherwise, he stood motionless. I also went inside the church of Sainte Merrie, another very old church in the area.
Pere Lachaise is Paris' largest cemetery, and is the final resting place for many famous people. The most interesting feature, however, is the statuary and the tombs. Since there are no signs pointing the way to the famous plots, you have to look for them, and and found only two: Heloise & Abelard, medieval lovers (Google them) and Jim Morrison of the Doors. Also there are Moliere, Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, Chopin, Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas, and many others. There is room for 70,000 plots and people are still being buried here. Many of the tombs have sadly deteriorated, but they are very old as the cemetery dates back to the 18th century. The cemetery is built up a hillside and the cobblestones are killers, but it isn't at all creepy. It was an interesting way to spend the afternoon.
I got on the #69 back to the Bastille and changed there to the #29, so I would be closer to home. Then treated myself to some excellent gelato at Amorino's where I could watch the activity at the Pompidou Center.
Saturday, September 14, 2013
Day 8 - Chateau de Vincennes & Champs Elysees
I arrived in Paris a week ago today. Seems like I've been here a long time, and I still have a week to go. My only frustrations have been the weather (it's rained or threatened to most everyday) and my darn knee that's kept me from doing as much walking as I had hoped.
This weekend is Journees du Patrimoine, which I believe is taking place throughout Europe, including France. This year they are celebrating 100 years of protecting their French and European monuments. Part of the event is that the National monuments, museums, etc. are open for free. Some governmental buildings are also open to the public. I decided this would be a good day to visit the Chateau de Vincennes, which is located on the outskirts of Paris in the town of Vincennes.
I walked all the way down my street, Rue Quincampoix, for the first time today. It is only three blocks long, but it is lined with galleries, wine shops, and cafes. One restaurant is unique in that when you dine there you do so completely in the dark. I believe it is total darkness. I don't think I'm game for that. As I neared Rue de Rivoli I had a wonderful view of the Tower of St. Jacques. It is all that remains of a 16th century church and is one of the starting points for pilgrims journeying up Rue St. Jacques and on their way to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. This is an ancient pilgrimage, still being taken and featured in the film "The Way."
I rode the Metro for the first time today, using Line 1 from Hotel de Ville to the end of the line at Chateau de Vincennes. The chateau is part of 14th century fortifications of Paris. The Chapelle Royale on the grounds was built in the 14th century, and is very similar to Sainte-Chapelle on the Ile de la Cite in Paris. The color of the stained glass windows is rather unusual in that they are mostly lighter colors rather than the darker reds and blues in many church windows. I lost count on how many spiral staircases I went up and down today, but there were quite a few, including those used to access restrooms in cafes.
I had lunch at the Cafe Le Drapeau across from the chateau. I had the Salade Drapeau, which consisted of confit of gizzards (probably duck) and warm potatoes on a bed of lettuce, and garnished with hard-boiled eggs and tomato. It was really good, but then I like gizzards. For dessert I had the Cafe Gourmand which was a small coffee with three small desserts: a pear tart, tiny little creme brulee, and a chocolate mousse.
Back on the Metro I decided to ride on up to the Arc de Triomphe as it is on the same line, with the idea of strolling down the Champs Elysee, which I'd never done before. I didn't go to the Arc, as I had been to the top before and I didn't think today's weather would offer much of a view. There really didn't seem to be much traffic in the Etoile (the traffic circle around the Arc), but it is Saturday. I walked down the west side of the street, and every time I looked across it, I thought I should be on the other side, so I crossed over when I saw a Monoprix. The Monoprix are all over France and there are dozens of them in Paris. They are like a cross between JC Penney and Target, and many of them have fresh food as well. They are where the average French person buys their cosmetics, children's clothing, underwear, and towels, etc.
The Champs Elysees is where you want to go when you want to feel like a tourist. The sidewalk is jammed with people. The shops and cafes are all over-priced. I had to shoo away a couple of petition girls. I got tired of dodging people, so went to find the Metro station at Franklin D. Roosevelt, which is two stops from the Arc de Triompe. I saw a woman sitting on a bench, so approached her with my best "Bonjour, Madame, pardon me for disturbing you, but do you know where the Metro is?" All in French, of course, and all for naught - she was a tourist, too! After walking around some more, I finally saw it hiding behind some plantings, but then had to walk quite a distance under ground to the platform. So now I can cross strolling the Champs Elysees off my list.
It rained most of the day, but not really hard, just enough to be uncomfortable. Since it is fairly warm, I feel like I'm wrapped in saran, damp from both the inside out, and the outside in.
After returning to the apartment I did two loads of laundry at my local "laverie." Fortunately, there was someone there to help me figure out how to use the machines. Payment is made at a central station and the machines are operated from there. I had been holding back coins for a couple of days to make sure I had enough. It cost 10 euros (about $13.50) to wash and dry the two loads. Even with the dryer set on low, I thought my clothes might combust when I took them out of the dryer.
I returned to Le Quimcampe for dinner tonight. It is just a few steps from the apartment, so very convenient. The staff is pleasant and the food is good. I had something called a "pistalle au confit du canard." Wasn't really sure what a "pistalle" was (thought it might be the drumstick), but I know I like confit du canard (duck preserved in its own fat). Turns out the pistalle was a packet made from phyllo dough, filled with shredded seasoned duck, and baked. It was sort of sweet and savory, different than anything I've ever had before, and pretty tasty.
I'm hoping for a nice day tomorrow, but I'll take whatever I get. I embrace the "smile at the rain" concept, just like at home.
This weekend is Journees du Patrimoine, which I believe is taking place throughout Europe, including France. This year they are celebrating 100 years of protecting their French and European monuments. Part of the event is that the National monuments, museums, etc. are open for free. Some governmental buildings are also open to the public. I decided this would be a good day to visit the Chateau de Vincennes, which is located on the outskirts of Paris in the town of Vincennes.
I walked all the way down my street, Rue Quincampoix, for the first time today. It is only three blocks long, but it is lined with galleries, wine shops, and cafes. One restaurant is unique in that when you dine there you do so completely in the dark. I believe it is total darkness. I don't think I'm game for that. As I neared Rue de Rivoli I had a wonderful view of the Tower of St. Jacques. It is all that remains of a 16th century church and is one of the starting points for pilgrims journeying up Rue St. Jacques and on their way to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. This is an ancient pilgrimage, still being taken and featured in the film "The Way."
I rode the Metro for the first time today, using Line 1 from Hotel de Ville to the end of the line at Chateau de Vincennes. The chateau is part of 14th century fortifications of Paris. The Chapelle Royale on the grounds was built in the 14th century, and is very similar to Sainte-Chapelle on the Ile de la Cite in Paris. The color of the stained glass windows is rather unusual in that they are mostly lighter colors rather than the darker reds and blues in many church windows. I lost count on how many spiral staircases I went up and down today, but there were quite a few, including those used to access restrooms in cafes.
I had lunch at the Cafe Le Drapeau across from the chateau. I had the Salade Drapeau, which consisted of confit of gizzards (probably duck) and warm potatoes on a bed of lettuce, and garnished with hard-boiled eggs and tomato. It was really good, but then I like gizzards. For dessert I had the Cafe Gourmand which was a small coffee with three small desserts: a pear tart, tiny little creme brulee, and a chocolate mousse.
Back on the Metro I decided to ride on up to the Arc de Triomphe as it is on the same line, with the idea of strolling down the Champs Elysee, which I'd never done before. I didn't go to the Arc, as I had been to the top before and I didn't think today's weather would offer much of a view. There really didn't seem to be much traffic in the Etoile (the traffic circle around the Arc), but it is Saturday. I walked down the west side of the street, and every time I looked across it, I thought I should be on the other side, so I crossed over when I saw a Monoprix. The Monoprix are all over France and there are dozens of them in Paris. They are like a cross between JC Penney and Target, and many of them have fresh food as well. They are where the average French person buys their cosmetics, children's clothing, underwear, and towels, etc.
The Champs Elysees is where you want to go when you want to feel like a tourist. The sidewalk is jammed with people. The shops and cafes are all over-priced. I had to shoo away a couple of petition girls. I got tired of dodging people, so went to find the Metro station at Franklin D. Roosevelt, which is two stops from the Arc de Triompe. I saw a woman sitting on a bench, so approached her with my best "Bonjour, Madame, pardon me for disturbing you, but do you know where the Metro is?" All in French, of course, and all for naught - she was a tourist, too! After walking around some more, I finally saw it hiding behind some plantings, but then had to walk quite a distance under ground to the platform. So now I can cross strolling the Champs Elysees off my list.
It rained most of the day, but not really hard, just enough to be uncomfortable. Since it is fairly warm, I feel like I'm wrapped in saran, damp from both the inside out, and the outside in.
After returning to the apartment I did two loads of laundry at my local "laverie." Fortunately, there was someone there to help me figure out how to use the machines. Payment is made at a central station and the machines are operated from there. I had been holding back coins for a couple of days to make sure I had enough. It cost 10 euros (about $13.50) to wash and dry the two loads. Even with the dryer set on low, I thought my clothes might combust when I took them out of the dryer.
I returned to Le Quimcampe for dinner tonight. It is just a few steps from the apartment, so very convenient. The staff is pleasant and the food is good. I had something called a "pistalle au confit du canard." Wasn't really sure what a "pistalle" was (thought it might be the drumstick), but I know I like confit du canard (duck preserved in its own fat). Turns out the pistalle was a packet made from phyllo dough, filled with shredded seasoned duck, and baked. It was sort of sweet and savory, different than anything I've ever had before, and pretty tasty.
I'm hoping for a nice day tomorrow, but I'll take whatever I get. I embrace the "smile at the rain" concept, just like at home.
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